The Harbor Princess made its final u-turn out of the Benicia Marina, gave three hearty blasts of its horn and headed home to Fisherman’s Wharf Sunday afternoon as I watched from my window. One of the highlights of the Benicia Yacht Club’s Opening Day on the Strait was a first time visit by the Red and White Fleet which offered eight separate boat tours of the Strait over the weekend. Had taken one of their trips to Alcatraz years ago but this jaunt was smoother, closer to home, and pure pleasure. Our ship held around 300 passengers, the smallest in their fleet.
The company’s original tour boat business began operations in 1915 to serve the Panama Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco. That exhibition was a major influence on California artists who were introduced to European modern art for the first time. But that’s another story.
I got tickets early and was glad that I did as all trips sold out quickly. It was a short walk from my place to the boarding ramp. A two decker red and gold trolley with “Van Ness/ Market Street” painted on the front brought visitors to East B St. from several different stops in town. “Hey lady in red,” yelled a fellow from the open top of the trolley Saturday as I sneaked out my front door to grab the Benicia Herald and was spotted in my red fleece jacket covering my pajamas. Much to my embarrassment the other passengers waved, as well.
Sunday, my sister Susan and I watched as people lined up a good hour before sailing time. When the queue started moving, we dashed over and were greeted by the friendly crew. Scoring two seats and our own table by the window, we watched last minute boarders hurry down the ramp in front of the Harbor Master’s. Once seated I realized that I’d left my water bottle at home. “ Can I run home (pointing to my condo) and get it?” I asked a staffer. “There probably isn’t time, but let me get you a complimentary bottle of water,” said the friendly Scotty. He was back in a flash with a cold bottle for each of us even though the drink/snack line was still almost out the door. Talk about VIP treatment!
Former Mayor Jerry Hayes and President of the Benicia Historical Society was our guide as he relayed stories of Benicia’s history pointing out locations of key landmarks as we sailed. I asked him later if I might have a copy of his narrative to use in this column, and he generously agreed. I’ve referenced it heavily here. Thanks, Jerry!
We headed East toward Suisun Bay up to the Martinez Bridge, West down the Contra Costa side toward the Crockett Bridge and back again. The Carquinez Strait was named after the Karkin Indians who were one of eight tribes making up the Ohlone peoples. They were here for 10,000 years stewarding the land for future generations. I was struck by all of the open space and low profile buildings in Benicia. Not a high-rise apartment or office building in sight. Can we keep it that way for 10,000 more years?
We cruised by the East H St. site of the former Pacific Mail Steamship Company, the number one shipping company in California during the 1860s and 1870s. Although the line was founded in San Francisco, it soon moved to Benicia, then a rival with San Francisco as the premier city of the West Coast! The move was made to save money as the fresh water in Benicia discouraged barnacles attaching to their ships — removal being a huge maintenance cost. Originally founded to deliver mail, the Line expanded to freight and was the primary carrier of immigrant Chinese labor who mined the gold and silver of the Mother Lode and were largely responsible for building the railroads.
Was surprised to see large blocks of debris stacked up along the shore for several miles on the Contra Costa side — the remains of demolished warehouses that stored grain shipped by railroad from the inland valleys in the late 19th century. There it was loaded into large sailing ships bound for England by way of the treacherous Cape Horn. Wouldn’t they have been something to see — so much more graceful than the Toyota shoe boxes and oil freighters that ply the Strait today.
Did you know that the Carquinez Bridge used to be called the Silver Gate Bridge in deference to the Golden Gate? Back in the day when I commuted from Berkeley to Sacramento the toll was 35 cents. I miss the toll collectors who would sometimes greet you as you handed them your change.
As we passed Port Costa, a bustling port during the railroad ferry days, we could pick out the Warehouse Cafe — the last wheat granary still standing. Jerry Hayes said that if he ever committed a murder, Port Costa would have be the perfect place to hide out. But that was then when scalawags, sailors, and the demimonde were hanging out. Today he might have been spotted enjoying cheese filled squash blossoms and Meyer lemon relish at the Bull Valley Inn and the jig would be up.
Hadn’t realized that Southhampton Bay, named after a Navy frigate, was the original home of the mothball fleet of WWI and II vessels. They were later moved to Suisun Bay. Think of the view Southhampton homeowners would have had if the big, gray battleships had stayed parked in their front yards.
As we disembarked the Harbor Princess, I asked a crew member if they would return to Benicia. “Due to the success of this trial run, I’m fairly certain that we will be back,” he said with a smile.
Old man rhythm is in my shoes
It’s no use to sittin’ and a-singin’ the blues
So be my guest, you got nothin’ to lose
Won’t ya let me take you on a sea cruise?
Oo-ee, oo-ee baby …………
Letters From Benicia 